NOT-SO-MATERIAL GIRL.

Madonna rang in the Jewish new year-Happy 5765!-by jetting to Israel where she joined fellow Kabbalists who had gathered from around the world for a spiritual conference organized by L.A.'s Kabbalah Center. Joined by husband Guy Ritchie, 36, the singer, 46, flew by private jet to Tel Aviv Sept. 15 and stayed in the presidential suite at the posh David Inter-Continental Hotel. The next day she spent six hours in prayer services in one of the hotel's conference rooms-which had been converted into a makeshift synagogue-and, after a break, spent the evening praying, singing and dancing until 1 a.m. Madonna, says fellow Kabbalah follower Maria Maples, who also made the trip, didn't receive any special treatment. "There's no separation between who's a celebrity and who's not," says Maples. Nor did she receive special attention from outside the group: Madonna ran into a group of ultra-Orthodox Jews near the city's sacred Western Wall who taunted "You have no right to be here." (Just as disconcerting for the singer were the hordes of paparazzi, who actually kept Madonna from reaching the Wall.)

The celeb couple did find some time to relax: On the night of Sept. 17, they snuck off to a nearby beach, where they watched the sunset, then dined on figs, olives and cheese at a local restaurant. The pop star concluded her pilgrimage Sept. 19 at a $500-a-plate gala to benefit a Kabbalah Center affiliate, Spirituality for Kids Foundation, which teaches children how to interact in the spirit of Kabbalah. "I wouldn't think of a better place to end my tour," Madonna said, "and I promise not to stay away."

PHOTO (COLOR): "I am not here representing a religion," Madonna said. "I am here as a student of Kabbalah."

PHOTO (COLOR): Madonna visited the grave of a rabbinical sage.

PHOTO (COLOR): "I feel very safe and very welcome," Madonna said at a gala.

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By Marisa Wong; Susan Christian-Goulding; Alicia Dennis; Lisa Ingrassia; Herb Keinon; Angela Koenig; Chad Love; Susan Mandel; Josh Mitnick; Gail Nussbaum and Cynthia Wang